Off to St Johns

Up early to catch the ferry off Fogo. Since we now know th captaincwe get to go up on the bridge. They still use that big wheel! Went around peninsula through Musgrave harbor.Foggy but some huge icebergs. Back through Terra Nova, drive drive drive.Newtown is a worthy side trip. Town spread over small islands. Also want to be off the road at dusk if possible to avoid spending a car ride with a moose.

Fogo island inn

Had brunch at this expensive inn which runs about $1000 per night. The view is nice but we have at same view from our full size house for quite a bit less. We share cod offal ( bellies) and slaw, I had a grain salad. Ok but pricy. Rainy and windy so drove around the island today. Went up to Brimstone head and saw sown large bergs. Saw the two salt box houses for rent. Would highly recommend them. Stopped st the seafood processing plant bought 3 lbs of fresh snow crab legs for $22.50. Patty got a tour. In season they have sea cucumber lobster and shrimp. Decided to leave a day early for St Johns.

Iceberg tour on the Ketanja

Joe Batts Arm. Sunny early but clouding up. Saw a fox on the way. Boat left about 9 am. 12 passengers on the bigger boat and 4 braves souls on the rubber boat. Went past the Inn and then off to circle one of the icebergs. Beautiful vein of pure blue ice. Stopped and got off at Little Fogo Island. A few structures and church still there but not any permanent residents.   At one point there were 300. Saw lots of murres, puffins ,razorbills. Great 3 hour trip for $85. Patty went back again in the afternoon. Gail and I visited some of the artist studios and a little quilt shop with knitted items and canned goods (seal and other unique items). We passed.

Stopped at one of the 4 corners of the flat earth . Google it! Brought home “moisturized” chicken for dinner. Whatever that is, from Chesters. Heard about the mass shooting in Orlando. ?

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Off to Fogo Island

Up early to head to the ferry to Fogo Island. Stopped at Ginns General store in Stonebrook. Every imaginable piece of dusty hoarder stuff you could imagine.

11:15 ferry to Fogo with stop at Change Islands. You have to back off he ferry which is an interesting adventure for those with campers or boats. Stayed at Tickle view in. Big house owned by the ferry captain who lives next door. Drove out to Joe Batts Arm to visit the Fogo Island Inn. Amazing structure jutting out on the rocks. Several artist residences nearby also. Screech (rum) old fashioned for $16. Drove up to Tilting very cute fishing villages.

Fish rain more fish more rain

More lobster and mussels and cod from the market. Went to Twillingate theater for a kitshy lobster or fish dinner theatre. experience  Cold rainy and windy night.Our neighbor Lou came over with frozen salt cod from the stoner kids next door. Hmmmm. Let’s not take that 10 lbs of stinky fish with us. But very thoughtful. Lou is a friendly Newfie from Corner Brook. Another rainy day so off to the museum in Durell. They have a stuffed polar bear that came in on an iceberg from Greenland. Bet he was surprised by his journey, must have overslept. Hiked over to the point by our house and spotted several root cellars. Unusual lichens and mosses. Spotted some big icebergs floating by today.

Lou told us the gannets were in the bay so Patty went to take pictures.

Lovely salad smoked salmon snow crab and scallops for dinner. Note : always bring your own chef with you on vacation.

Went to the shed party down the road after dinner. Lou was playing the zydeco tie and spoons with Karen Churchill. Very fun. We all had instruments including ugly sticks and spoons. Homemade snacks. Very down home and friendly.

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Iceberg beer from Quidi Vidi Brewery and Lobster!

Yes, made from real iceberg water in pretty blue bottles and only sold in Newfoundland.

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Off to Doyle Samsome and Sons Lobster Pool. Yes, they were swimming until they showed up on our table with butter.

1 1/2 pounds of glorious lobster for $32 Canadian which is 25% less in Us dollars right now. For some reason though they love Kraft dressing on their iceberg lettuce and the potato salad has peas carrots and sugar. But who can complain, the lobster was fresh and delicious.

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Bonavista provincial park and lighthouse

IMG_1992 IMG_1991 IMG_1988 IMG_1986 IMG_1985 IMG_1983 IMG_1976Saw the candy stripe lighthouse at the park, foghorn blowing loud. Stopped for dinner in town after at Skippers. cute fishing town but the food was only so-so. They had fresh lobster but we had a seafood plate with crab salmon and cod fishcakes, cod tongue and cheeks (their tongue is surprising large, or maybe the cod it came from was). Patty got a screech and Pepsi and it was her go to drink for the entire trip! Of course I had to get some Old Dutch on the way back to the hotel.

 

 

Elliston – puffin viewing and root cellars

Elliston on the Bonavista peninsula has the best spot for viewing puffins. Walk a short distance to the top of a rock and just across the way thousands of nesting puffins. I hear they swim all the way back to Greenland after the babies are ready to go. Their survival rate is low – one egg per year and 20% chance of survival due to the love of the gulls for egg mcpuffin breakfasts.

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Elliston’s other claim to fame is the high number of root cellars per capita, but we found quite a few in Twillingate also.

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Tour of Twillingate in the rain

Visited every indoor place we could in town due to the rain. Twilligate Museum, Durell Museum, art gallery, Auk Island Winery…all fruit and berry wine but great labels. Stopped at D&J Seafood for lunch and tried fisherman’s brewis -made with hard bread biscuits soaked and mashed with cod, fired pieces of pork fat called scrunchions on top. I love them! Molasses bread and partridge berry jam, A local favorite.

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